Black Dandyism; The Met

Klyde Wright
May 5
5 min read

Ah, The Met Gala! Every first Monday of May, we are adorned with this parade of fashion in the name of art. Actors, artists, and influencers gather to ascend the steps of the Met wearing the highest forms of fashion centered around a theme catered to the art within the museum itself.

Now you may be wondering... Klyde, you’ve never spoken about the Met Gala... why now? Well, they made the Met Gala black with the theme this year, and I felt that it would be a disservice to myself and my audience not to elaborate. Even though I've had an adventurous year, this will be my first blog of the year! There will be more.

Let’s start with this year's theme! Dandyism, which in my opinion is the first time they have chosen a theme that directly reflects the lives and experiences of marginalized people. What is Dandyism?

Dandyism is a cultural and aesthetic movement that emerged in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, centered around men (known as dandies) who placed a high value on elegance, refinement, and personal style—often to an exaggerated degree. Dandies cultivated a distinctive, polished appearance and manner, using fashion as a form of self-expression and even rebellion against mainstream or bourgeois norms.

This theme, like many others, is determined months in advance, giving artists and designers time to collaborate to create the perfect moment that represents their interpretation of the theme. This year's chairman for the Met Gala, Colman Domingo, has been a staple in men's red carpet fashion from the moment he stepped onto the scene as an actor, so being on the board is on brand, along with Dapper Dan, who we know is a staple in fashion design and style, being one of the many vehicles in fashion that kept Dandyism at the forefront of Black fashion and style.

While I do not consider myself a dandy, the best example of dandyism in my life would be my best friend Ced. Ced embodies dandyism not only in his personal style but in the way he chooses to exist in society. A good example: when we were in college, Ced dressed up on his most stressful days as a way to cope with the hecticness of the day. This included not only the suit, but also a hat, a scarf, a briefcase, and the occasional shades! During college, I explored the rise of menswear in fashion using the yearbooks of VSU as my only form of reference. In my research, I noticed that during the height of civil unrest and racial inequality, dandyism was the highest form of rebellion that later transcended into assimilation with the rise of hip hop, bringing in the ever-growing streetwear culture.

Anyway back to the Met Gala, mind you I’m writing this only because Laneka told me to shout out to her!

My first thought of the theme was tailoring! I wanted to see impeccable tailoring, luxurious textiles, and an obscene amount of accessories. I wasn’t concerned about designers because this Met Gala is about style and class, and we know that can’t be bought! I will be using the rest of this blog to elaborate on my personal favorites and less favorites.

Let’s address the chairmen of The Met Gala! Every year they choose chairmen to be a part of the process. This year, they chose Coleman Domingo and Pharrell Williams, and honestly, both of their looks were mid.

It felt as though they chose their looks last year! Domingo, who is a red carpet ruler in my opinion, chose two looks that made statements but in the end were safe, to say the least! He donned two looks, including a royal blue cloak and a second look containing different textures of black and white. Both looks were showstopping but, in my opinion, didn’t highlight the trueness of dandyism.

Pharrell’s look pissed me off because I feel like we’ve seen him in this before, right? Then I couldn’t get past his pants being too short, which on people who are already short seems impossible. Paired with his wife's leather number and LV tights, it gave BET Awards best dressed. I do believe the look was strong; the blazer was made completely of pearls, but it just wasn’t styled in a way that fit the theme!

Now understand that I am processing the Met Gala and typing this blog at the same time, and I can say that this night definitely goes to the women, but the men, I believe, have definitely stepped out, and I appreciate seeing performance art on the red carpet! I appreciate the women combining men’s wear and women’s wear that both nods to dandyism and the power and shape that men’s wear can push. Teyana Taylor represented what I feel is the most modern form of dandyism, combining her color palette and accessories nodding to the pimp era, which I feel wasn’t truly represented, while Janelle Monáe represented a true artisanal form including layers, a performance, bold colors, and the perfect accessories. I can’t forget Zendaya, who displayed once again the cleanest form of dandyism, including perfect tailoring and fabric selection.

What I appreciate about the theme is that it allowed for people’s interpretation, but I think what holds the most value are the ones who chose to make a statement about what dandyism is truly about. Willy Chavarria and his Zoot Suit also stole the night for me. If you are unaware, the zoot was a form of dandyism in the 30s and 40s during a time when the Black and Latino cultures overlapped and dressed as a form of resistance through beauty, as he said it. This suit was a sign of rebellion, and seeing it on the red carpet during this specific time in politics is beautiful, to say the least. Brian Tyree Henry gave me exactly what I needed, from the boot to the cape, nodding at the icon Andre Leon Talley. Dapper Dan and Doechi both represented a more modern form in streetwear logo-mania, which incorporates logos into the textile, while Swizz Beatz and Alicia Keys really brought it with pinstripes, which is another textile I was surprised I didn’t see much of, but they also were the best-dressed couple. I can also appreciate the safe looks in menswear like Usher, Dwayne Wade, and Russell Wilson... nothing too crazy but just right.

A lot of women decided to lean into high glam, which was also on brand. Artists like Megan Thee Stallion, icon Diana Ross, and Monica Bombaro decided to lean into what women were wearing during the height of dandyism.

Once again, I'm writing this as I’m watching it, and I didn’t feel like anyone really used structure or pinstripes correctly. Then here comes pregnant Rihanna, and what can I say!? The balance of the baby bump and the bustle made from the shoulder pads and sleeves… ugh, this really does nod to menswear more than dandyism, but the use of the lines and shapes to highlight her body and form is a chef's kiss!

Honorable mentions of course to Future, Lupita, Lauryn Hill, Traci and Diana Ross, Cardi B, Chance The Rapper, Kerry Washington, Coco Jones, FKA twigs, Pusha T, Whoopi Goldberg, Burna Boy and Tems

My least favorite look of the night has to be Kim Kardashian's for multiple reasons. One, leather? I also feel like her look was a missed moment in accessories and truly lacked any depth for a Met Gala look.

Instead of pointing out which looks I like the least, I would say there were concepts that I wanted to see that were missed.